Sam Brown takes a sculptural approach to fashion, designing garments that can be both worn on the body, and exhibited as stand-alone works of art.
Brown's work is designed without the consideration of gender; inviting the wearer to have agency over what they decide to wear based on their emotional connection to the garment as opposed to being designated a category of items to choose from. Emotional connection dictates the entirety of their work; each collection they create is rooted in personal experience with a heavy focus on the process of creation and a willingness to take a step back and allow the tactile materials and processes being used to dictate the final outcome.
INSPIRATION
'Metamorphosis' explores the journey of gender transition and draws parallels from other transitional periods seen within nature; particularly in the metamorphosis of moths. The collection was inspired by Brown's experience with gender dysphoria and struggles throughout the process of transitioning, particularly with body image and grappling with the concept of focusing on the ending rather than living in the present throughout the journey.
This idea bled into the design process, every garment was designed primarily in 3D on the stand, taking this tactile approach meant that the garment could change drastically throughout the design process depending on the materials used. Rather than trying to conform the design to a illustration from paper, Brown aims to allow the materials to dictate the direction, leading to innovate and experimental silhouettes.
DETAIL
For the entire collection, Brown painstakingly created over 25 latex 'skins', each taking around 3 hours. Inspired by Heidi Butcher’s Latex Raumhäute in the late 70's, the 'skins' were created by painting liquid latex over leather hides to build up latex sheets that would be strong enough to use for clothing. The unique process of creating the skins leads to inconsistencies in the colour and texture of each skin, whether from varying levels of UV exposure or runoff dye from the leather tan transferring onto the skins, mirroring the natural inconsistencies of the human body. Since the latex can be very thin whilst still being strong and maintaining good elasticity, the latex can be worn without the need for closures such as zips, giving the garments a sleek appearance and almost becoming extensions of the body.