Deeply inspired by paradoxes, it is by delving back into his childhood that Raphaël was able to combine melancholy and brutality in a mix that resonates as contemporary poetry. "I grew up surrounded by two completely opposite families, whose values and histories diverged in every way.”
For Raphaël, fashion, like art in general, doesn't stop at the function of clothing but is characterised by a deep reflection of our society, both on a philosophical and psychological level, which he likes to highlight through his stories. "I love paradoxes, improbability and chance, what I like most is that I don't know if it distinguishes something good or bad and it is this in-between that I find sublime.”
"This idea of expression through clothing has inspired me a lot." says Raphaël. "We all have a memory of a loved one or a story that has left a deep impression on us. From jewellery to a grandfather's jacket, I wanted to turn clothing into a meeting place. To tell more or less subtly the indelible trace that a moment of a life can leave.
The story is about a sensitive brute, a melancholic city-dweller who, under a concrete carapace, reveals an absolute sensitivity. His clothes become his only way of expression, of memories and history. "My work is very much based on the opposition of materials, wardrobes and patterns. Raphaël says "This sensitive guy is kind of in between a heart of fire and a heart of ice . He combines his contemporary life with his rather traditional past." This collection is where fetishism and memories meet.
Throughout his collection, Raphaël uses strong textile materials. New functionalities for his pieces through accumulation, deformation or even extraction processes, this main feature of strong textile materials contributes to make the garments rediscover new features. This sensitive brute adapts his dress codes subtly by creating a confrontation of fabrics that are full of individuality. "This year, I also wanted to work on the trace to adapt it into patterns. More specifically, a strong symbol of tailoring, and one that was close to my heart: the houndstooth. One of my grandfather's favourite patterns, it was a tribute for me to adapt it to my collection. If you look closely enough at the houndstooth, you could probably see human forms in it."