Rae Franklin is a Kingston 2023 fashion graduate specialising in women’s knitwear. Her interest in historical dress combined with her innovative textiles and silhouettes create a strong collection evoking the Golden Age of Hollywood.
I discovered my love of knitwear during a semester at the Politecnico di Milano, this was firmly cemented during my placement in a knit design studio, gaining invaluable experience in the industry. I enjoy creating textiles, pushing the boundaries, and developing experimental fabrics to create new and interesting knitted silhouettes. Looking back at historical references and my love of vintage garments acts as a catalyst for my designs, combining this with interesting yarns and innovative techniques to create clothes with longevity that last beyond trends.
INSPIRATION
Inspired by an old sepia photograph of my great-grandmother, Maria, on her wedding day led me to research and explore the silhouettes of the 1930s. Fusing this with inspiration drawn from the renowned Carrickmacross lace, the Irish ancestral home of my family. I wanted to explore the use of innovative knitted textiles by using various yarns and techniques to inform and create new shapes and silhouettes, whilst being consciously responsible in my approach.
Exploring sepia photography, I came across Cecile Beaton, known for his elegant portrayal of high society. A particular image with subtle nuances of blush rose, fawn, mink, steel blue, and chocolate inspired my colour palette, enhancing the elegance of the collection.
DETAIL
I experimented with a fine mohair and monofilament yarn to design featherlight delicate lace pieces which sit under draped fluid viscose, creating a rich layered look. To achieve a knitted bias cut effect, I chose a heavy viscose yarn which when knitted would contour the body shaping an hour glass effect, emphasised further with godets at the hem. Sheer and subtly placed pointelle details add to the delicate layers juxtaposing the oversized chunky handknits creating a look evoking the Golden Age of Hollywood. I was kindly sponsored by Lanificio dell’Olivio using their sustainable mohair. Deadstock fine viscose and polyester yarns were sourced from a redundant northern mill. Further yarn development was successful using fine viscose on the Lilliput machine, creating a luxurious chunky viscose handknit yarn.