Mackenzie Harper is a fashion designer specialising in menswear, tailoring and streetwear design. Throughout his final major collection he focuses on his own Scottish heritage featuring his personal clan tartans, pleats and draping. He also showcased his flexible aptitude of having client focused designs, being a finalist in the LAU x Clothsurgeon competition.
The "Checks Over Stripes" collection incorporates a contemporary flair to the traditional Scottish garments, from tailored bomber jackets with subtle pleated details and draped tartan sleeves, to half pleated trousers echoing Scottish lineage with its mixture of tartans, each piece embodies the spirit of athletic leisure and tailoring whilst paying homage to Scotland.
INSPIRATION
Inspired by his Scottish heritage, this collection beautifully blends traditional Scottish influences with contemporary streetwear and tailoring. Focusing on the elegance of pleats and tartans, he represents his heritage through the use of his family tartans, Mackenzie and Buchanan, with the primary colour being Navy to reflect the Saltire flag. He used donated tartan scraps from Geoffrey Tailor & Kilt Makers and deadstock fabric within his collection to stay sustainable whilst retaining quality.
Drawing inspiration from Scotland's traditional clothing and vibrant culture, "Checks Over Stripes” offers a range of stylish, wearable garments that seamlessly combine the juxtaposing themes of tailoring and sportswear. Researching into historic Scottish garments, the use of draped tartan in early military dress and pleats within the traditional modern kilt became a main inspiration towards his designs so each garment comes to life, swaying and flowing when in motion, creating a fluid visual experience.
DETAIL
The use of tartan was very important for Mackenzie, however purchasing real tartan can be quite expensive. To overcome this challenge, he was resourceful and instead incorporated tartan remnants into the details of each garment. Within his final collection every pair of trousers features tartan scraps in the waistband, adding a distinctive touch. The bomber jacket is designed featuring box pleats on the back with tartan fabric inserted between them and a pleated hood to enhance its visual appeal. The trench coat integrates tartan scraps into the belt, belt hooks, and epaulettes, showcasing his attention to detail. The highlight of the collection is the pleated trouser leg made from seven different tartan panels. These panels were combined together then pleated to create a single pleated leg, making it a standout piece of Mackenzie's collection.