Emilia took inspiration from her own disability experience, since she's always been discriminated together with her triplet brother Valente. The bespoke jacket of a perfect society becomes more comfortable and utility, maintaining high-profile fabrics and upcycling details.
"I've seen discrimination everywhere: I couldn't stare and do nothing" Emilia says, "My project wants to demonstrate that society itself is extremely limited, because it can't see the potential of every person. Disability is not a limit, because limit exists when you can't see a personality beyond physical or mental obstacle. I'd like to give a voice to those who can't speak for themselves".
I realized that disabled people weren't well seen since 1940s, when an U.S.A. President like Franklin Delano Roosevelt refused to be filmed on wheelchair. At that time, disability meant weakness and there wasn't a distinction between physical or mental disease. So, I decided to compare this society, that considers itself as perfect, like a traditional bespoke jacket, maintaining comfort. My garments are the expression of myself: using tradition for creating something of easy to wear.
My interpretation of bespoke fashion starts with materials: I used classics of traditional tailoring, like houndstooth and boiled wool, with a smooth and utility look. Then, I really care of my customer's skin: my alpaca yarn knitwear is soft and hypoallergenic. My attention for details is expressed with bias binding, that finish internal edges for the best quality possible. You can notice some buttonholes with green thread: this colored signature refers to Cerebral Palsy, that I suffer from.
These corsets had to be thrown, but I decided to use them with a new point of view. I liked the idea of these medical pieces, representing social anxiety, that could become richer with a drawing of mine. This corsets are pictured completely by hand and shows to quotes, that expressed my idea of social isolation because of physical or mental disease. The firs line is Roosvelt's, who compared disability to weakness. The second one is Jean Paul Sartre's, who became one of the most influential European intellectuals, despite his strabismus: the quote "Hell is other people" comes from his play "No Exit", that symbolize perfectly the lack of communication between human beings.