Alexander Bowyer specialises in menswear and tailoring. Practicing in both design and construction, he uses a wide range of inspiration and research to push menswear forward on paper and in cloth. Whilst studying he undertook a number of projects showcasing his versatility. He was short listed for the BFC X Stella McCartney 'R for Repurpose' 2022 competition.
Cultivating my interests in menswear design during my degree, my aim is to develop what tailoring can look like for the modern consumer. I use a wide range of inspiration and references to fuse tradition and my own mix of minimalism and detailed design features. In my graduate collection, I have been able to rejuvenate historic crafts such as hand embroidery and traditional tailoring techniques to create my own mark on menswear and tailoring.
INSPIRATION
Interested in this harder edge of menswear I wanted to look at Wall. Street where tailoring was at its most intimidating. Referencing the power suits of 80s and 90s from designers such as Armani and Boss, I looked to the trading floors to inform my silhouette and fabric. Fusing Wall Street and the occult, I began developing a narrative of satanic stock brokers. I expanded upon this by exploring Catholic iconography and incorporated hints of clerical garments to influence my design features.
Evolving my skills in hand embroidery, I wanted to use this historic technique in a contemporary way, striking a balance between my clean minimalistic silhouette and the dramatic detail influenced by Catholicism and classical depictions of hell. Together with some traditional tailoring stitches, my collection brings craftsmanship to the forefront.
DETAIL
To accompany my physical outcome and portfolio, I professionally shot the collection in a studio. My studio space was deliberately clean and simple so full attention was on the fabrication and design details. Using high quality wools and other tailoring cloth, I really wanted to highlight the weight, grain and handle of each fabric. I also wanted to display the clean and powerful silhouettes deriving from my research. To do this, I kept the studio plain with all focus on the garments. With lighting providing an ominous shadow I was able to achieve a look that showcased the design but hinted at the ever present dark tone in my work.